Peru Divide Bikepacking Guide: An Epic Trail of Beauty & Type II Fun

Peru Divide Rundown

The Peru Divide route cuts through the Peruvian Andes, and has been on my bucket list for years. The Divide spans over 1,000 kilometers along the area’s continental divide—a natural boundary that separates river systems flowing into different bodies of water. To the west, the Pacific Ocean; to the east, the Amazon Basin. You’ll experience a striking contrast as you traverse these mountain passes and high-altitude plateaus, often crossing from cold, barren alpine landscapes into lush, forested valleys within a single day.

But it’s not just extreme natural beauty that makes riding the Peru Divide special. The route winds through active and abandoned mining sites, where gravel roads carve through some of the most remote corners of the Andes. The juxtaposition of pristine wilderness and industrial scars is unique, demonstrating the region's reliance on its natural resources, past and present.

With an average elevation of 4,000 meters and climbs frequently exceeding 5,000 meters, it’s definitely not a ride for those wanting an easy cruise. You’ll face relentless climbs, every single day from the moment you wake up, unpredictable weather, and the constant need for self-reliance in an environment where resupply points are scarce, spare parts are nearly impossible to find, and food poisoning is a daily hazard. Even the showers might electrocute you.

Yet, for all its challenges, the Peru Divide offers a pay off that will satisfy any thirst for challenge and adventure. The isolation, dramatic landscapes, and encounters with otherworldly creatures like llamas and alpacas make it an unforgettable ride. It’s an opportunity to push limits, embrace the unpredictability of high-altitude travel, and gain a deeper appreciation for one of the planet's most dramatic and remote regions. It’s a journey worth every pedal stroke.

The difference between the Peru Divide and the Peru Great Divide

There are two routes that go by very similar names, but frustratingly, differ drastically in length. The Peru Great Divide route spans approximately 1,605 kilometers (997 miles) and has a total elevation gain of about 38,100 meters (125,000 feet). It's a beast of a trail and will take about a month by bike. On the other hand, the Peru Divide is a shorter segment that travels the same route and is designed specifically to weave through what many feel to be the "highlights" of the longer Great Divide. The quicker—though still quite grueling—trip, which runs from Oyon to Chicla, can be completed in about two weeks. This is the ride I did, and for which this guide was created.

Best time of year to attempt the Peru Divide?

The best time to ride in Peru is between May and September. These are technically winter months, but it's also the region's dry season. Even a little rain can turn the otherwise well-packed, smooth mining roads you'll be using into peanut butter mud highways that'll gum up your drive train and make it impossible to turn your wheels. We learned this the hard way, having to be shuttled 10 km in the back of a mining truck after one of the hardest parts of the trip.

Once winter starts, Peru really is very dry—we only felt moisture when we were traveling through clouds at high altitudes. However the longer you leave after May, the colder it will become.

How to Get There

The official Divide route starts in Huaraz which is about 400km or 14 hours north of Lima by bus. Huaraz, the second largest city in the Peruvian Andes, is a mountain sports hub and sits at just over 3,000 meters above sea level. It is well catered for tourists and there are opportunities to stock up on last minute provisions and even some small gear shops, but don’t rely on them. Stocks are limited and so is the selection. Bring everything you can!

The most common and cost effective way to get to the Trailhead in Huaraz is by an approximately seven hour bus ride from Lima. From Lima airport you’ll need to find your way to one of the national bus stations. They are all about 30 minutes by taxi, but be aware that you will be paying a tourist tax on fares here. When I was there 70 soles (~$18 USD) seemed to be the going rate, which I only discovered after paying around 200 for a car I booked from the airport. The best way to avoid this is just to chat with your driver and agree on a rate before you start.

We used Cruz Del Sur bus company, one of the largest operators in the area. There is a supermarket nearby the station where you can stock up for the journey, as well as numerous street vendors. Be prepared for busy stations where you won’t understand how things operate. Be patient and everything will be fine, as long as you keep your eyes on your bikes.

The buses are comfortable but can get very crowded and don’t stop often, so take snacks and water and be prepared to settle in. You will also go from sea level to 4,200 meters on this journey so it might be worth considering altitude sickness preventative measures at this point.

It’s less problematic to travel on the buses if your bike is left in your bike box or bag, but still not the easiest of tasks. Be prepared to hustle. You need to buy a separate ticket for your bike too, and check it in separately which can cost more than the cost of a seat but is just how it goes.

We found the reception in Huaraz was much friendlier than the one in Lima. It was easy to find people happy to help us find a ride to your accommodation, even with a bike box.

How to Acclimate to Altitude

Altitude affects the body's performance due to lower oxygen levels and thinner air. The amount of oxygen that your body absorbs is significantly reduced at anything above 2,500 meters above sea level. You notice it immediately.

On arrival into Huaraz, which sits at 3,000 meters, even a short walk to the local restaurant left our party short of breath on a walk that made us feel like we were walking through sand, even after months of training. You simply must prepare to spend around 5 to 7 days acclimatizing and allowing your body to adapt prior to starting your ride. This will allow ample time for the body to create more red blood cells and efficient breathing patterns.

Thankfully, the town is full of people doing the same. You’ll find lots of places to eat and get last minute supplies in Huaraz. Listen to your body, rest, build up daily amounts of exercise and don’t try and rush this process. Without it, you can experience serious complications like high-altitude pulmonary edema, where fluid builds up in the lungs, making it hard to breathe. Some people in our group experienced this and had to end the ride early, so don’t underestimate this.

Dealing with Dogs

South America is well known for its street dogs, which I was a bit worried about going into the trip. There’s no rabies in Peru, but bites may still lead to infection and injury. I’m very glad I had thought about how to handle the omnipresent canines before I left the U.S.

Dogs naturally love to chase, and they seem to love cyclists. When one decides to follow you, the worst thing you can do is speed up. Instead, slow down, or even stop If needed, you can dismount and use your bike as a shield, though I’ve never personally had to do this.

Most dogs are small and not overly threatening, though one of our group was bitten unexpectedly while stationary. Thankfully, we had a nurse with iodine on hand. The most aggressive dogs are near cities, especially as you leave Huaraz. Once past them, encounters are generally less intense. Larger dogs near alpaca farms are usually more curious about the bikes than threatening, and you can generally see them coming from a mile off.

Route Details

The route starts in Huaraz and heads South through Oyon and Huancavelica Ending in Abancay close to Cusco, the gateway to the Inca trail and Machu Picchu.

If you are comfortable using GPX files and have a device that can connect to satellites, you should have few issues. The route follows well maintained gravel roads with no single track or anything more than forks in the road to manage. You are often travelling from town to town, which means you’ll quickly realise if you have taken a wrong turn. We used GAIA on our phones with a Garmin backup. The GPX file is easily available online. Don’t rely on cell service or signage, and you won’t often be bumping into people to ask directions.

How to Stay Hydrated

You will need a water filter, and capacity to carry at least 2 litres. There are frequent options to refill from small mountain streams but I would strongly recommend checking your surrounding environment when doing so due to the toxic nature of mining run off. The industry has left many towns and villages with compromised drinking water, which continues to be a big source of controversy in the region. Take your water from streams when you can and avoid still water.

How to Nail Your Nutrition

Be prepared for mountain food in its rawest form. Vegetables struggle to grow at these altitudes so fresh food is not readily available. It is possible to find small bananas, apples, beans and a vast array of potatoes, but otherwise animals are the main form of nutrition once you set off. Vegetarians and vegans, you’ve been warned.

Though I have been strictly vegan for the past decade, I made the necessary decision to loosen my rules in Peru. The quick change to eating 4-6 eggs a day was quite the contrast to my usual diet, but not as much as the shock of animal-based stocks. I was regularly pulling chicken necks out of my vegetable soups.

As remote as this route is, you are able to take most of your meals in small traditional eateries known as picanterias. Mainly found in Andean regions, these informal eateries serve hearty, home-style dishes. If you order the menu del dia—a set meal that usually consists of a soup starter and a main—you can eat pretty cheap. The vibe is great: you’ll often feel like you’re in someone's home and be seated with a very local group of people. Just don’t ask for any changes.

Traditional food is either Saltado (a mixed dish of meat, vegetables, rice and potatoes) or Chifa (a Chinese inspired rice dish, similar to stir fry, often with either egg or meat). Breakfast and lunch is usually an egg inside a flat bread with hot sauce. It’s nothing glamorous, but when you’ve been grinding for hours it’s all welcome.

Coffee is nescafe or the more traditional Cafe Pesado. This method involves brewing a strong coffee concentrate and adding hot water when it is time to serve. Flavor profiles are inconsistent, but the effect is notable.

You will not find dehydrated meals anywhere outside of Huaras, and even there they are very expensive. I think I carried one as a back up which I never had to use.

It is also worth noting that salad and ice are usually prepared using tap water that will upset your stomach, potentially causing a few days of food poisoning, so steer clear of these.

Bring Cash

Your credit card will be of very little use once you set off from Huarez—rural people won’t take them. So make sure to carry cash with you. If not, you will be told to ride to the nearest town, which could easily be a day or two’s ride away and likely another 1,000 m in elevation gain back to the route. There are a number of larger towns on the route with ATMs, but they are quite spread apart. Every town or village usually has at least one small store, where you can get basic snacks like Oreos and gummies to keep you going, but it is a good idea to do your main restocks in the larger towns. Just keep in mind that the more you buy, the harder it will be to handle all the climbs in the route. The key to enjoying this route is keeping your weight down.

Peru Divide Packing List

The following items are recommended in addition to the usual bikepacking list that most experienced riders will have developed over time. Make sure your layering system is good enough for hot days in the saddle, but also sub zero nights at camp. (I suggest a sleep system that’s comfortable down to - 5 C/ 20 F). Again, weight is the key to fun on this ride, so buy as light as you can afford and don’t overpack.

Water Filter: I’d take one of these on nearly any bike trip, but it’s particularly important on a self supported one. Even tap water needs to be filtered in Peru. The new LifeStraw Mini is a great option.

Sleeping Bag Liner: Temperatures fluctuate quite drastically along the rail, so the extra warmth offered by a sleeping bag liner will be essential for colder nights. You’ll also likely use them in guest houses, but also on particularly dirty days where contact with your synthetic sleeping bag doesn’t feel great on the skin.

Altitude Pills: There are a number of altitude remedies—we may have tried them all. Coca leaves are used by locals and are available from small shops and markets, but I found them more of a distraction than a cure. You can buy altitude tablets from most pharmacies in major towns, in both natural and pharmaceutical forms. The latter seemed much more effective, although a lot less common.

Brake Pads: What goes up, must come down, and when you start the descents they can last for an hour. I’ve never had so much extended use of my brakes, and no one wants to cut a descent in half if they don’t have to. Take at least one set of spare brake pads because if you run out, you're unlikely to find any once leaving.

Multifuel Stove: You will not be able to find compressed gas on the Peru Divide so leave your Jetboil at home. Multifuel stoves such as a MSR Whisperlite or Tranjia that can burn gasoline, white gas, or even unleaded will allow you to find extra fuel supply nearly everywhere.

Extra toilet paper: When you need it, you’re really going to need it. (See earlier notes about filtering water, avoiding ice cubes, and the highly likelihood of food poisoning in general.)

Parting Words of Advice

A day on the Divide often starts at around 3,800 meters. You’ll spend most of the next 4-8 hours riding uphill to a pass, and then have an incredible 1 to 2 hour descent into the next town.

Camping can be incredible, but it can also be very difficult to sleep at 4,200 meters above sea level. When you’re unrested, riding becomes very difficult. There are sections where camping is the only option and with a shelter and sleeping system it should be no problem finding places to pitch camp. Breakfast and dinners can easily be found in most towns, as long as you are flexible with what you are willing to eat.

Accommodation options in towns are known as Hospedaje, and offer very basic amenities and are very budget friendly. They usually have a bed and a shower. Be careful of the showers, though—more than a few feature exposed wiring you have to be careful to keep water off. It’s why they’ve become known as ‘suicide showers.’ Seriously.

My biggest regret is not learning Spanish before my trip. There is very little English spoken here, and the few phrases of broken Spanish I picked up from three months of Duolingo were greeted with welcome. I left feeling like I had missed a large amount of connection and opportunities that make these kinds of bikepacking journeys unique. As good as translation apps may be, there is no replacement for impromptu connection with a local.