“If we haven’t reached the col in 30 minutes, I’m turning around.” That’s the voice of my hiking partner. I ignore the threat, knowing that heading back would mean a much, much longer walk to the next hut. But I get her point. We’re somewhere in Italy on a ridge way off the regular trail, it’s snowing and thick clouds are rapidly rolling in. The Tour du Mont Blanc trail doesn’t go here. No, it’s down along a river and dirt road, winding away in the valley far below.
We’re doing our best to avoid the traditional path—adding more than a few alternate routes to lengthen the 100-mile looping trek through the Alps.