Learning to surf in Washington, in your 30s, while living multiple hours inland, is an exercise in patience. The water is frigid year-round, and the waves, while they most certainly have their shining moments, are fickle, heavily tide-effected, and spread out across hundreds of miles of coastline. Out of towners are lightly tolerated at most spots, and sent packing at others. Ferry rides, long drives, sad towns with pretty sunsets; it all adds to the charm of the search.
After a snowboarding accident in 2017, I bought a Nikonos V off of Craigslist. I couldn’t snowboard, but I’d been doing that for years, so I wasn’t overly upset by that. I was at the beginning of my surfing journey though, and instantly felt an impending sense of FOMO. I dreaded being left behind while my friends continued their efforts to improve, against the odds of age and geography.
I figured the Nikonos would be a good excuse to keep going on trips, as well as a way to get in the water without having to actually stand on a board. Pretty quickly I fell into old (art-school) habits, making portraits, photographing landscapes, making a “body of work.” I kept shooting even after I was all healed up, and though I’ve slowed down as of late, that little orange camera always comes with me when I hop in the car.