The Ultimate Guide to Skiing Les 3 Vallées, the World’s Largest Ski Resort

An Overview of Les 3 Vallées

As the name suggests, Les 3 Vallées is composed of three main valleys (plus a bit of a fourth) with some shared ridgelines that allow skiers to take a lift up one valley and ski down into another.

From the west to the east, the valleys are Belleville, Allues, and Saint-Bon. The Belleville resorts are Val Thorens on top, Les Menuires in the middle, and Saint-Martin-de-Belleville (colloquially just “Saint Martin”) at the lowest elevation. Allues is the middle valley, where you’ll find Meribel at the top, and Brides-les-Bains lower down. Farthest east is Saint-Bon where you will find Courchevel. The fourth valley I mentioned is off the back side of Val Thorens, where you will find Orelle in the Maurienne Valley. It only became connected in 1996, but by then Les 3 Vallées had established a brand, and the powers that be didn’t want to change it to Les 4 Vallées.

Les Trois Vallées is in France's Savoy region, which was independent until incorporation in 1860. Locals still take a lot of pride in that independence and the Savoy flag (which looks much like the Swiss flag, but the central cross extends to the edge) can be seen flying everywhere. It is a stunning, pastoral area consisting mostly of farmland. It was once quite poor due to it being so agrarian, with most residents relying on subsistence farming. Because of this, and the harsh winters at altitude, food preservation became an important survival skill, which is why the region has become famous for its cheese, cured meats, and potatoes, all of which factor heavily into the local cuisine.

The seven ski resorts are all interconnected by lifts and ski slopes but they each have very different personalities (more on this below). Some of the area's towns have had human presence dating back to the beginning of recorded history, transforming into ski towns with the rise of the industry; others were built specifically around the resorts during later development. Fortunately, most of the resort planners were forward-thinking, building ample housing for the many employees that they would need to staff the various mountain amenities. That fact contrasts with most US ski towns, which are notoriously unaffordable to live in and have strict building laws.

Also, the food. My god, the food. If your vision of ski area fare is sad, gray burgers and pizza that uses ketchup as tomato sauce, prepare yourself: the French are absolutely not screwing around. Even knowing France’s well-deserved gastronomic reputation, I simply was not ready for resort cuisine at such a high level.

Logistics

How to Get to Les 3 Vallées

Coming from North America, you will likely want to fly into Geneva, Switzerland. It’s the closest major international airport offering non-stop flights from several US cities, and from there you can take a taxi or shuttle to your resort, which takes roughly three hours. Lyons, France is roughly the same distance by car, but the airport is much smaller, meaning you’d likely need to add a stop somewhere else in Europe. You can also fly into Paris and take the high-speed rail from there, but you’re looking at roughly five hours on the train, followed by another 30-60 minutes by taxi or bus. I opted for Geneva.

Where to Stay

Most accommodations can be set up through Les 3 Vallées’ central booking. There, you’ll be able to choose between standard hotels, bed and breakfasts, apartments, chalets, and serviced apartments. They range from quite reasonable to eye-wateringly expensive. You can also find some great direct-from-owner deals on VRBO, and there are even some youth hostels if you want to go full dorm-style.

Lift Tickets

While daily lift tickets at many stateside resorts now exceed $200 and even $300, the all-resort lift ticket for Les 3 Vallées comes in at roughly $90 a day. It's even cheaper if you just get a pass for a single resort, but most people get the full Les 3 pass. That’s affordable enough that they’ve started to see their percentage of American visitors grow year over year, as many skiers and snowboarders discover that, even with flights, they may be able to have a cheaper ski vacation in the French Alps than in the Colorado Rockies. It’s also worth noting that if you have Vail's Epic Pass, you get up to seven days at Les 3 Vallées.

Rentals & Lessons

If you aren’t bringing your own equipment, it’s no big deal. There are a million places to rent in every one of the villages. I would recommend inspecting the equipment before you commit, because I saw everything from some very nice and well-tuned Saloman skis to a very busted board with bindings hanging on by a thread that was completely the wrong size for the rider. If you want to sign up for a ski or snowboard lesson, they aren't hard to find—Les 3 Vallées has more than 3,000 (yes, thousand) instructors that can teach both skiing and snowboarding, and the bar for becoming a ski instructor in France is insanely high, so you’ll be in good hands.

Do You Need a Guide?

Even if you’re a high-level skier or rider, you may want to consider hiring an instructor as a guide for a day or two. The place is just so damn big that it’s really nice to ride with someone who knows where they’re going and where to find the best runs for your ability level. If you want to venture off-piste, I’d say a guide is borderline mandatory. There is a lot of exposure here, as well as avalanche danger, and crevasses that can drop you hundreds of feet in an instant. That's inbounds.

It’s also just extremely easy to get lost. While I was there I worked with several guides from ESF (the largest operation, with over 2,000 guides in the three valleys), as well as a guide from the more boutique First Tracks Ski Coaching, and they were all phenomenal.

Money and Language

Credit cards are widely accepted, so I was able to get around without getting any euros, but it may be a good idea to have some cash on hand, just in case. While there is generally much less tipping in Europe, ski guides generally won’t object. Anything from 30 to 50 euro is appreciated. It’s a tourist destination so virtually everyone who works there speaks English, but that being said, you will be doing yourself a favor if you learn at least a handful of phrases in French, including “excuse me, do you speak English?” (Excusez-moi, parlez-vous anglais?) A little effort goes a long way.

How I Organized My Trip to Les 3 Vallées

During my recent trip to Les 3 Vallées, I took an unorthodox approach. Because I was visiting as a journalist rather than strictly for fun, I stayed two nights in four different hotels, at four different resorts. When I checked out in the morning I would leave my bags at the front desk, then have a taxi pick them up and take them to my next hotel/resort. That enabled me to ski all day and finish at my next hotel. It was a cool novelty, but I wouldn’t recommend it to anyone else—better to just pick a hotel as your base and not bother with the cycle of unpacking and repacking. It did allow me to get to know the largest of the villages a bit better, though, which is what I was after.

That means I got to stay (in chronological order) in Val Thorens, Les Menuires, Méribel, and Courchevel. These villages are all truly ski-in/ski-out, whereas some of the smaller villages have nothing beneath them, so you can ski down to them, but then you have to take lifts out. I managed to spend an afternoon and evening in Saint-Martin-de-Belleville as well, but regrettably I only caught a quick glimpse of Orelle and Brides-les-Bains, so I don’t feel equipped to make recommendations for those two places.

With all that said, let’s break down each resort. They’re different enough from one another that this might just help inform where you’ll want to stay on your visit.

Val Thorens

The Vibe: DJ Sets and Double Blacks*

Val Thorens is party central. It’s the highest resort in all of Europe (topping out at 3,200 meters or just under 10,500 feet) with some of the most challenging terrain, and so it tends to attract the more hardcore skiers and snowboarders. Its visitors tend to be younger, and as one of the younger resorts itself, its accommodations skew a bit more modern.

It’s worth noting that Europe uses different designations for ski slopes. Compared to the US, greens and blues are the same, but then it’s reds, blacks, and off-piste. Some of the blacks are groomed, some aren’t, and none of the off-piste stuff is rated, but a lot of it would qualify as double-black by North American standards.

DJ sets on patios abound, and Val Thorens is home to Discothèque le Malaysia, one of the region’s biggest nightclubs, open from 11 PM to 4 AM every night. In the middle of the mountain is Le Folie Douce, which provided the best on-mountain meal I’ve ever had. It's perhaps better known for turning into a notoriously sloppy party by mid-afternoon. The hotels and most of the restaurants at Val Thorens are spread across six areas set up like mini villages, but you can walk across these in about 20 minutes.

The Skiing: As Spicy As It Gets

Val Thorens is also the highest area in Les 3 Vallées. That means it (and Orelle, which it shares a ridge with) tends to open a couple weeks earlier and close a couple weeks later than the other resorts. For the 25/26 winter season, it was 22 November to 3 May, versus 6 December to 17 April for the rest. It’s also home to some of the steepest runs and some of the rowdiest off-piste terrain. The Freeride World Tour holds an annual competition here, if that gives you any indication.

There are plenty of groomed runs for all levels, and some of them are very long leg-burners, but if you consider yourself a hardcore skier, this is probably where you want to ski (if not stay, because again, everything is attached). Val Thorens also has a massive freestyle scene and one of the largest and highest terrain parks in Europe, and in general has excellent snow because of the altitude.

I got to spend an off-piste afternoon here with a guide from ESF, and it was one of the highlights of my trip. We headed to the Lac du Lou area and the views were astonishing. I was there in late March and it had been warm, so the snow had been in a freeze/thaw cycle, which meant it was pretty crusty up top. Still, we still managed to find tons of fresh turns even though it hadn’t snowed in nearly a week. As we got lower down, the snow softened up and we were able to really open up our turns. Without much stopping, it still took us about 45 minutes before we reached a lift.

The Food: High and Fine

I didn’t have a bad meal the whole time I was in Val Thorens, but there were some standouts. That obscenely good on-mountain lunch I mentioned was at La Fruitière (“The Fruit Farm”), which is attached to La Folie Douce, where I had herb crusted Savoyard trout and leek fondue. It was fine-dining level, in the middle of the slopes, at 2,600 meters elevation. It gets higher than that, though. Caron 3200 sits, as the name suggests, at a whopping 3,200 meters (roughly 10,500 feet), making it Europe’s highest wine bar, but it also has a small café and restaurant. I had a cappuccino and a pan au chocolate to fuel up for the day, but the real draw is the 360-degree views, which include Mt. Blanc in the distance.

For dinner, one of the most memorable meals was at Chez Pépé Nicolas, a small, still-active mountain pasture farm that has been making cheese for more than half a century. Now it has a polished restaurant within it that specializes in Savoy cuisine. You’ll need a cab to get there (as it’s halfway between Val Thorens and Les Menuires), but it’s warm, inviting, and entirely unique. Fondue, a traditional pot-au-feu with Savoie beef, and old-fashioned mustard ice cream are among the house highlights. Val Thorens also has the Michelin starred Les Explorateurs, which bills itself as a culinary voyage, exploring local ingredients from mushrooms and cheeses to regional fruit and wines.

There are plenty of affordable dining options, too. Some good French restaurants in town offer a “menu du jour” for lunch, including Le Tivoli and Alpen Art. Sk’Ewok is a well-regarded take-away Asian kitchen in town, and in the morning you should check out The Crêperie and Breakfast.

Slope views from inside Fahrenheit Seven

The Stays: Modern and Fun

In Val Thorens I stayed at Fahrenheit Seven, a sleek, modern hotel, that has a retro feel to it with lots of mid-century modern furniture and decor. It’s ski-in/ski-out and it has a ski valet as well as a rental/retail shop in the basement. Rooms are comfortable, and have views out over the massive ski slopes that dominate the area. The hotel definitely has a party vibe, with DJs on the patio daily, and plenty of drunk people staggering out of the bar and down the halls late at night (bring earplugs).

Another friend stayed at the Altapura, which has amore mellow and polished aesthetic, with lots of natural wood, while still catering to the sporty crowd that Val Thorens attracts. For cheaper options, you can often find package deals that bundle accommodation, ski passes, and ski rentals via this Val Thorens page. For an option that’s somewhere between youth hostel and hotel, take a look at the UCPA Val Thorens, which also offers three buffet-style meals a day.

Off-Slope: Ziplines, Sled Runs, & More

Nightlife and skiing aren't the only things to do at Val Thorens. There's a massive, double zipline called La Bee which takes you down 1,800 meters at heights up to 65 meters (213 feet) off the ground. France’s longest toboggan run, called the Cosmojet, which comes in at six kilometers long (3.7 miles), is here. These plastic sleds are really difficult to steer, and the sled run crosses busy ski slopes several times, which can feel sketchy as hell—and also pretty darn fun. Other activities include paragliding, ice climbing, electric fat biking on snow, bowling, an ice rink, and spas-a-plenty. And, of course, there’s no shortage of bars.

Les Menuires and Saint-Martin

The Vibe: Family-Friendly & Still Sporty

Just a bit lower down the Belleville canyon from Val Thorens is Les Menuires, which has an entirely different personality. Les Menuires is quiet and family-oriented—the town slogan is “Friendly Les Menuires,” and it supports its warm and welcoming reputation with lots of activities for kids, and an overall slower pace. It’s also generally the most affordable of the major resorts. It has its fair share of luxurious hotels and restaurants, but things here tend to be more relaxed and understated, with fewer DJ sets and more chalets, especially as you get into some of the smaller villages, which are almost all residences. For all that, though, it’s still got tons of ski-in/ski-out options, and you’re just a lift away from the spicier terrain higher up.

Just a bit further down the canyon is Saint-Martin-de-Belleville. I’m lumping it together with Les Menuires because I've only spent half a day there while staying at Les Menuires, but it has its own distinctive vibe, and it is extremely charming. Unlike most of the resorts, Saint-Martin existed as a town in different forms for thousands of years. It didn’t add a ski resort until the 1980s, and then it eventually became a part of Les 3 Vallées, but the village maintained its pastoral look with architecture that still uses traditional stonework on the building exteriors.

Aside from a few large hotels, buildings tend to be smaller and all adhere to a cohesive look that keeps the town feeling like time slowed down here. You’ll find locals chatting in cafes, carrying baguettes down the street in paper-wrapped bundles, and there’s even a communal wood-fired oven that was once used regularly and is still fired up on special occasions. That said, things get quite luxurious once you step indoors. Saint-Martin skews upscale, but it’s more of a quiet luxury, rather than the jet set's Ferraris and Balenciaga bags (we’ll get to those in a moment).

The Skiing: Cruise the Day Away

Like the village itself, the terrain at Les Menuires takes things down a notch compared to Val Thorens. There’s still plenty of spice to be found if you want it, and Les Menuires extends all the way up to 2,800 meters (nearly 9,200 feet) at the high point. There is a lot of beginner-friendly terrain near the main villages, and then there are big peaks outside of that for the more adventurous. Lower down you’ll actually start seeing a handful of trees, which become even more prominent as you get into Saint Martin. Not only are the groomers a bit less crowded, but because those looking for off-piste adventures tend to gravitate toward Val Thorens, I was able to find large, untracked patches of snow several days after the last storm. Les Menuires hosted many of the ski events at the 1992 Winter Olympics, and has a nice variety of terrain parks, too.

Things get a bit warmer, and a bit more wind-protected as you get lower. Skiing down from Les Menuires into Saint Martin is a lovely quick adventure, and it’s a novel way to approach the village with its high church steeples. Pop into town for a coffee or a pastry, then hop onto a short Poma surface lift to bring you back up. Les Menuires is larger, and has more lifts that can connect you to other parts of Les 3 Vallees, but you can hop a gondola in Saint Martin to the St. Martin Express chair and be over in neighboring Méribel pretty quickly.

The Food: Traditional Tastes

The first night in Les Menuires, we ate at La Marmite, which is known for its authentic Savoyard cuisine. That meant death by cheese, but what a way to go. We shared a raclette, a local cheese melted right at your table and served over steamed potatoes. And the croziflette au sarrasin, a regional specialty consisting of tiny square pasta cooked with rightfully famous Beaufort cheese, local sausage and leeks, is a plate I’ll never forget. We also ate at the bustling Au Torè in Saint-Martin-de-Belleville, where an order of sole meuniére hit the spot despite the distance from the sea. Afterwards, there are carefully crafted, herbaceous cocktails to be had at the bar at M Lodge and Spa. Those on a fine dining quest should take note that La Bouitte, one of two restaurants with three Michelin stars, is tucked inside a small hotel of the same name.

Les Menuires has some great on-mountain options for a mid-ski lunch, too. Restaurant d'Altitude le 2800 at Pointe de la Masse sits atop the resort at (you guessed it) 2,800 meters (~9,200 feet). It has 360-degree panoramic views, but an omelet with lardons and melted reblochon cheese is every bit as good of a reason to visit. On the other side of the valley, Roc 7 slings pasta, pizza, and seafood from a slopeside lodge with a large deck.

For budget-friendly eats, locals are quick to point to Boulangerie Chalet Alpain in Saint Martin. It’s a traditional French bakery run by siblings born and raised in Saint Martin, and it’s renown for its incredible breads and pastries. They can deliver breakfast straight to your door if you’re staying in nearby hamlets. In Les Menuires it’s also worth checking out Brasserie des Belleville for traditional regional comfort food as well as Le Setor, an old-school chalet where the dish of the day and a coffee will run you roughly 20 euro.

The Stays: Quiet Comfort

In Les Menuires I stayed at the Higalik Hotel. The rooms were comfortable and decorated in an elegant but understated way that still felt true to the Alps. The hotel has an excellent ski locker room, restaurant, and breakfast buffet that stocks local pastries and a French omelette station. Les Menuires has a ton of options ranging from hotels to condos, and as previously mentioned, this is likely where you’ll find the most affordable accommodations, especially for groups, and a huge number of them will be ski-in/ski-out. In Saint-Martin-de-Belleville you’ll find more upscale options, again, with the theme being “quiet luxury.”

One of the more affordable options in Les Menuires is the Alpeen hotel, which was recently renovated and has cosy rooms with a panoramic view of La Masse summit and surrounding mountains. Its onsite restaurant Bela Veya is popular among guests (as well as external customers), and the hotel has a ski room, equipment rental, and direct access to the slopes.

Off-Slope: An Old-School Alpine Town

Les Menuires is divided into five districts and a number of small hamlets. La Croisette is what you might call the main one, where you'll find most of the shops (including ski gear, grocery stores, and pharmacies) and restaurants, the movie theater, and the iconic town bell tower, all of which are worth checking out. You’d also be missing out if you didn’t spend an afternoon exploring Saint Martin by foot. Visit the town history museum inside an old farmhouse, check out the churches, and stroll around and appreciate the traditional rural Savoyard architecture (with some examples of Savoyard Baroque, like the Église Saint-Martin church).

Méribel

The Vibe: A Little Bit of Everything

Moving over to the Allues valley, Méribel bills itself as the heart of Les 3 Vallées (even its emblem is a heart), and that fits on multiple levels. Not only is it the center point in the area, giving you easy access to all the other resorts, but it's also sort of the happy medium, personality wise. It has some of the lively scene and gnarly terrain of Val Thorens, the family-friendliness and approachable terrain of Les Menuires, a bit of the true village feel of Saint Martin, and a good splash of Courchevel’s luxury. It also features one of the largest and most walkable base areas, with a wide variety of restaurants, things to do, and grocery stores. It’s kind of the goldilocks resort—if you’re feeling indecisive, or just want a bit of everything with easy access to the rest, Méribel is for you.

Brides-les-Bains, a smaller village within Les 3 Vallées, is farther down this valley. It sits at just 600 meters, and you can’t ski to or from it. Instead it’s connected to Méribel by gondola, which takes roughly 25 minutes each way. Brides-les-Bains is a relaxed little spa town known for its natural thermal springs. It was an Olympic Village in '92, and because it’s farther from the slopes you may be able to find much cheaper accommodations here.

The Skiing: Variety Pack

On the slopes, Méribel maintains its balance. Not only is there plenty of mellow terrain and heaps of challenging terrain, but these runs are often right by each other. That meant my friends could enjoy rolling green and blue cruisers while I played in the ungroomed powder fields just adjacent, and we all got our kicks. We managed to arrive after it had snowed a few inches overnight, and here again I was shocked how few tracks there were in the off-piste stuff, even well into the afternoon.

Also, Méribel has actual tree runs! Les 3 Vallées is vast but scant on trees. Here, the glades were nicely spaced, reminiscent of the backside at Mammoth. There's a variety of groomers that run top-to-bottom, too, with fun rollers and wide patches that spread people out nicely. It also has terrain parks with small, medium, and large features. Méribel’s central location also makes it extremely easy to get to any of the other resorts and get back home in time for après.

The Food: Tour the Alps

I know I’m starting to sound like a broken record here, but once again, the food in Méribel is fantastic. On the slopes, Maya Altitude is a standout, specializing in high-quality meats—beef, veal, lamb, chicken, and salmon—cooked over charcoal. There's also an outdoor fondue bar that's open when weather permits. It's worth venturing just slightly off-slope to Le Clos Bernard (which you can take a horse-drawn carriage to, if you’re feeling romantic). This is the perfect spot to try the Savoie delicacy known as the tartiflette, a dish served in a cast iron pan and absolutely loaded with potatoes and reblochon cheese. You'll also find escargot on the menu, (when in France!).

Another notable spot in Méribel is the Italian-inspired Fifi. Set up on the hillside, it boasts beautiful views of the valley from large windows and a deck, and serves up some of the best gnocchi you'll find north of the Italian border (roughly 14 miles away). The Hotel Le Coucou has a number of fine-dining options in it, including Le Fumoir, a good spot for killer fondues and raclettes.

Exploring Méribel Centre (the main district) and see what you find. There are tons of options ranging from boutique cheese shops and creperies, to fondue and Italian spots. You’ll find generous portions at excellent prices at Le Rastro in the Mottaret neighborhood, a family-run local favorite that serves up pizza and Savoyard specialties in a casual, sporty atmosphere.

The Stays: Choose Your Own Adventure

Méribel is known for a great diversity in lodging options, from hotels to chateaus. We stayed a Falcon Méribel Resort and Apartments. The apartments are well-appointed with everything you need for an extended stay, including modern kitchens and comfortable beds. It’s just a couple blocks from the lifts, and a few more blocks to the heart of downtown. There's a spa and ski concierge on the property too.

Among the well-heeled, the five-star Le Coucou is a go-to. It features colorful art everywhere you turn, with refined furnishings, nice views of the slopes, and a stunning spa.

The hamlet of Mottaret has the most affordable accommodation options in Méribel. Résidence Odalys has a great location right at the top of the village, offering ski-in/ski-out access. It features alpine architecture that blends nicely with the rest of the resort, and rooms that sleep three to eight people. There’s also the three-star Hotel Le Mottaret, which has a heated pool, sauna, hammam, indoor and outdoor jacuzzi, and each room has its own balcony with a few of the summit of La Saulire.

Off-Slope: Bowling, Climbing, and Olympic History

Here too, it's a good idea to go for a walk downtown and explore. Check out the grocery stores and cheese shops, stop at the bowling alley, take a spin on the merry-go-round. There are all kinds of snacks to be had. At the Olympic Park in Méribel Center there’s a climbing wall, ice rink, gym, arcade, spa and pool, so families can spend all day if they choose. You can also take a break from the slopes to do a snowshoe tour in the Plan de Tueda Nature Reserve, where you'll find mellow inclines, songbirds, and tons of different mammal tracks.

Courchevel

The Vibe: Bling Bling, Baby

Finally, we arrive at the Saint-Bon valley. If you recall that Saint Martin is about luxury but not flaunting it, well, Courchevel flaunts it. Here, you'll find Ferraris, haute couture, oligarch money, and influencers posing with skis but not necessarily skiing. Courchevel is divided up into six villages, each with its elevation right in the name. The most luxe stuff is concentrated in Courchevel 1,850m (the only village without another proper name, though most of the upper ones are colloquially referred to by their altitude, as in "the 1,850"). Walking through town, it seems like virtually every hotel is five-star or five-star palace rated (ie, extremely high-end). It’s not uncommon for clients to show up, buy a whole Moncler ski outfit, use it for a week, and leave it in the hotel when they depart.

The main drag has every luxury brand you can imagine. Courchevel is where the majority of celebrities stay, including Prince William and Kate Middleton. The Hotel La Sivolière has an entire menu of treatments for dogs. The resort has its own tiny airport in the middle of the ski slopes.

It’s a lot, but it’s also gorgeous, the skiing is great, the food is fantastic, and the people-watching is unparalleled. Also, 2026 marks Courchevel’s 80th birthday, with plenty of parties on tap.

The Skiing: Groomed to Perfection

The grooming at Courchevel is second to none. They are not messing around, and lay down wide strips of perfect top-to-bottom corduroy daily. Like other resorts in Les 3 Vallées, there’s a ton of terrain for every level, and the runs tend to be broad and smooth, allowing you to really lean into your turns, which is why it’s sometimes called “Carving Courchevel.” There are terrain parks and gnarly off-piste crags, too, if that’s what you’re looking for. Most notabe among them is the Grand Couloir—one of the most famous off-piste ski runs in the world. It's a steep, black run that never gets groomed, and on a powder day you’ll want to get there first thing because it quickly becomes a huge mogul field.

Glitz, size, and reputation accounted for, the best reason to ski Courchevel is to rip the bag out of some groomers. While I was there, I found a black run that descended into the village of Le Praz (1,300) that was seven minutes of high-speed, leg-burning turns. I didn't cross a single other person on it.

The Food: Fine Dining Turned to 11

Les 3 Vallées has 17 Michelin stars and 12 of them are in Courchevel, spread across seven restaurants (one three-star, three two-star, and three one-star). That’s insane. Even if fine dining isn't your thing, it's worth setting aside a stipend to have the experience of visiting one of them.

At Alpage, you might have one of the most memorable meals of your life. The small, intimate restaurant looks out into trees filled with fairy lights, but it will be hard to take your eyes off the open kitchen where chef Jean-Remi Caillon and his team prepare small plates with massive flavors that highlight local, seasonal ingredients. Many of the dishes come with a story and are paired with a local wine.

There are memorable meals to be had in Courchevel that don't come with Michelin stars, too. At Beefbar, a high-end international chain known for its steaks, you can try top-grade angus and wagyu, but don’t sleep on the terroir beef from Giraudi, France. Get a killer lunch at Cha Cha, where Savoie fare meets Asian-inspired flavors.

Chef Jean-Rémi Caillon of Alpage

There are plenty of affordable options in Courchevel, too. Chez Ma Cousine is a gourmet grocery story that also serves up delicious sandwiches and other deli treats. Sky Courchevel in the Forum shopping center has French and traditional Savoyard cuisine (including tartiflette and croziflette) in a casual setting, and right at the foot of the slopes La Rôtisserie at Fahrenheit 7 Courchevel serves up hearty burgers, salads, and fresh ceviches that you can enjoy while you people watch and fuel up for your next run.

Speaking of dining on the mountain, Le Bel Air is a local classic. Largely unchanged since the 1980s, it’s a laid back, unpretentious spot that features made-to-order sandwiches and hot dogs, as well as pastas and regional classics. Another on-slope institution is Le Cap Horn, where the jet set feasts on spiny lobster, steak, and sushi in a 72-year-old multi-level chalet (making it the oldest active restaurant in Courchevel 1850). In the afternoon, the expansive south-facing deck often turns into an all-out party where magnums of champagne are ordered more for spraying across tables than pouring into glasses.

The Stays: Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous

I stayed at the five-star Annapurna, right at the base of the slopes in Courchevel 1850. Everything from the rooms to the hallways and the restaurants was nicely appointed, with parquet carpets in the halls, and plush beds and chairs in the rooms so you can lounge and admire the views from your massive windows. The service is made to match; here, the ski concierge will shepherd your skis from locker to snow, where they'll be waiting for you when you're booted up and ready to go. Annapurna is also home to the restaurant Alpage, and it has a pool, spa, and gym, too.

In addition to the dog spa, Hotel La Sivolière, has high-end rooms with fireplaces, and a lot of attention to detail. Even if you don't plan to stay, the cozy bar off the lobby has the feeling of a posh smoking lounge and is worth a visit for a negroni or one of the bartender’s original cocktails. Of course, there are tons of high-end chalets that you can book, some with private chefs. It’s that kind of town.

More affordable options do exist in Courchevel, too. In Courchevel 1850, take a look at Hôtel Courchevel Olympic, which has been designated as a two-star hotel, but it would be three-stars basically anywhere else in the world. Also in 1850, Résidence Premium Les Chalets du Forum features apartment-style housing that will allow you to relax in a homey environment while keeping you right in the heart of the action. There’s also Le Montana Hotel in La Tania (aka Courchevel 1,400), which features gorgeous mountain architecture and a well-regarded spa, restaurant, and bar.

Off-Slope: Luxury Brands & Ice Karting

If you like shopping high-end brands, this is your resort, as it has all the big names: Louis Vuitton, Fendi, Hermès, Prada, Gucci, Balenciaga, Chanel, Rolex, Hublot, Bvlgari, and plenty of others that I am too poor to have heard of.

More importantly, there's the oddball stuff, like ice karting. On a track built on a hockey rink, you can push the speed limit in electric go karts outfitted with snow tires while trying not to drift too much and spin out on the ice. Courchevel also has a toboggan racing run, and even though at three kilometers it’s half the distance of the track at Val Thorens, this one is steeper, has several tunnels, and you don’t have to cross any ski runs.

And there you have it. Les 3 Vallées had been on my bucket list for years, but it really is one of those “you have to see it to believe it” kinds of places. I knew it would be good, but it was just so much better than I’d dreamed. From the skiing to the food (my god, the food!), and everything else, I’m already trying to figure out how I can convince my friends to make the trip next winter. Maybe this guide will help convince them, but at the very least I hope it helps you plan your dream trip.