Alpaca vs Merino: A Guide to All-Natural Performance Fabrics

What is Merino?

It is estimated that there are over a thousand different breeds of sheep worldwide. Among them all, the breed most renowned for the softness and performance attributes of its fiber is the merino sheep. This breed originated in Spain around the 12th century and was so critical to Spain’s economy that exporting a merino sheep was a capital offense until late in the 18th century. These days most merino wool comes from Australia and New Zealand.

Merino is typically produced by twisting fibers of the fabric together to create a single-ply yarn in a process known as ring-spinning or core-spinning. Other production techniques include a twist-free spinning method that creates a double-ply yarn, in which merino is drafted around a nylon filament, called Nuyarn.

Merino wool is naturally waterproof thanks to an oily secretion called lanolin, which becomes a waxy coat that protects sheep from precipitation. Unfortunately, some people are allergic to lanolin and can suffer skin irritation by wearing merino. Lanolin allergies are rare, but it’s something worth mentioning.

What is Alpaca Wool?

There are two breeds of alpaca, the Huacaya the Suri, both of which are native to South America. The Huacaya account for 90% of the world’s alpaca population, and are therefore more commonly used in apparel, though both breeds feature in textiles. The Huacaya is known for having a fluffy, denser coat, while the Suri has a silkier coat.

Alpacas typically live in the variable high-altitude climates around the Andes Mountains. They grow thick coats of wool to protect themselves and are shorn once a year before the start of summer.

Unlike sheep’s wool, alpaca wool is free from lanolin, making it a naturally hypoallergenic option for people with a lanolin allergy.

Once shorn alpaca wool is separated into six categories by weight and then spun into yarn. It can be core spun, ring spun, or hand-woven.

The Performance Properties of Merino

Merino wool is renowned in the world of outdoor apparel for its performance properties. It is naturally antimicrobial, so it can be washed more intermittently than other garments. This also helps it remain resistant to odor.

Merino wool is hygroscopic, meaning it can absorb and desorb water at the vapor stage. When one is working up a sweat the fabric can absorb the moisture, and when the air around the fabric is dry it can emit the moisture back into the air. It can absorb up to a third of its weight in water before feeling damp. This allows it to remain breathable and dry quickly.

Merino wool is also naturally temperature-regulating. The pockets of air in the fabric can trap heat to insulate the wearer, and they also allow for ventilation to prevent overheating.

The Performance Properties of Alpaca

Although merino dominates the outdoor apparel market when it comes to animal fibers, the alpaca market is a fast-growing segment because of its performance attributes.Like merino, Alpaca fiber is also naturally anti-microbial and resistant to odor. Alpaca wool is also hygroscopic, allowing it to wick moisture and function well under wet or sweaty conditions. It is also highly durable and resistant to pilling.

Alpaca fibers have a hollow structure that makes them excellent at trapping heat. Because of this quality the alpaca wool brand PAKA has even invented a sustainable down fill (PAKAFILL) that is warmer than synthetic down while also being far more sustainable and eco-friendly than both synthetic fill and goose or duck down.

Alpaca vs Merino

Both alpaca and merino wool are excellent all- natural fibers that can be worn on a variety of adventures. But they have slightly different attributes that might make you prefer one over the other.

Feel: Alpaca fiber has flatter scales, and is extremely soft on the skin. The feel of alpaca wool is often described as similar to cashmere. Merino can have a more “prickly” feel because of the crimped shape: the fibers are naturally wavy and so they overlap and stick up. This is why merino is sometimes described as itchy.

Durability: Research from Deakin University’s School of Engineering and Technology in Australia has shown that alpaca fibers have greater durability than merino fibers. While durability depends on a number of factors, such as the thickness of the garment and the tightness of the weave, alpaca wool has the edge in this category.

Moisture Management: Merino retains about one-third of its weight in water without feeling wet. The water retention weight of alpaca wool is eight percent. This makes alpaca wool more water-resistant and allows it to dry faster. However since it does not hold as much water it cannot absorb as much sweat during a high exertion activity, which may result in a clammier feel for the wearer.

Weight: The diameter of a fiber is measured in microns. The smaller the micron the finer and softer the fabric is. The larger the micron the coarser the fabric is. Merino is typically in the 11.5 to 22 micron range while alpaca is in the 15-36 micron range. However thanks to its hollow structure, alpaca wool is three times lighter than merino of the equivalent diameter.

The overall weight of a fabric when produced is measured in grams per square inch (or gsm). For example Arms of Andes Sun Hoodie clocks in at 160 gsm. Ibex’s Indie Hoodie utilizes merino between 165-185 gsm. For even more lightweight options the Artilect Sprint Tee features 115 gsm Nuyarn fabric.

Sustainability: Both alpaca wool and merino wool are highly sustainable options compared to most performance fabrics on the market. Polyester and nylon are derived from fossil fuels and cotton production relies heavily on water, pesticides, and fertilizers. Both alpaca and merino are renewable, biodegradable, and organic. Both fabrics are also sometimes blended with other performance fabrics, reducing their overall sustainability.

Alpacas, however, have a softer environmental footprint (quite literally). Unlike sheep, they don’t have a hard hoof, making them gentle grazers that don’t impact soil health. Also, one alpaca produces more fabric than one sheep, giving alpaca wool a slight edge in this category.

Conclusion

The global performance apparel market has made it all too easy to succumb to fast fashion and order a poorly constructed garment made primarily from fossil fuels. And yet, it has never been easier to source a sweater from New Zealand or Peru made from all natural fibers.

Both merino and alpaca wool excel at providing warmth and breathability without generating odor. In order to select the right garment for your next adventure it might be helpful to consider factors like the weight of the product and the intensity of the exertion. Merino is much more widely produced, so there are a wider variety of options that might fit the bill, from heavyweight sweaters to featherlight tees. But alpaca wool is increasingly available in products that will match and even outperform merino in certain conditions. The PAKA Ultralight COOLPLUS Crewneck is a soft and versatile midlayer, and the Arms of Andes Wool Tee excels as a baselayer. Ultimately, the best option is the one that allows you to enjoy nature in a sustainable fabric.

Frequently Asked Questions

Where does merino wool come from?

Merino wool comes from the merino breed of sheep. There are over one thousand different breeds of sheep worldwide, but merino is renowned for being soft and performing well in outdoor environments. About 70% of the world’s merino comes from Australia.

Where does alpaca wool come from?

Alpaca wool comes from the alpaca. Alpacas typically live in the high-altitude terrain of the Andes mountains. There are two breeds of alpaca, and both produce fibers that are utilized in textiles.

What are the similarities between merino and alpaca wool?

Both merino and alpaca wool are anti-microbial, moisture-wicking, temperature-regulating, quick-dry, breathable fabrics. They are also both more sustainable than synthetic outdoor apparel.

What are the primary differences between merino and alpaca wool?

Merino wool contains lanolin, which can be an irritant in a small minority of people. In addition, the crimped nature of the merino fiber can cause it to be itchier. Merino can retain more water without feeling wet. Alpaca wool has a hollow structure, so it is lighter.

What is more sustainable: merino or alpaca wool?

Both merino and alpaca wool are highly sustainable options compared to most outdoor apparel. However alpacas don’t have hooves and therefore have a smaller impact on the environments in which they graze. In addition, it takes shearing four sheep to produce as much wool as one alpaca.